Chechem Hah Maya pottery cave

Atop the Vaca Plateau in the Cayo District, rests a small subsistence farm belonging to the Moralez family, who only recently discovered a cave on their property while hunting with their dogs. You can imagine the amazement of young William when, upon later exploring the cave, he found over sixty intact Maya jars and other pottery that have remained undisturbed since the cave was abandoned around 900 A.D.

This interesting day's outing begins in Benque Viejo del Carmen, where you follow the boulevard towards the western border, then turn southward next to Long Lucky Supermarket on the locally named "Hydro-" or "Arenal Road." This well-maintained dirt road, which does not appear on most maps, would eventually take you to the Mollejon Hydro Plant, but about eight miles out of Benque, you will see a sign pointing left, indicating the direction of Chechem Hah.

From the parking area, we walked down a few meters to the main camp. The short path takes you across a clear stream, which, if you follow it about 30 feet, makes a straight, 200 foot drop on its way to the Macal River below...not a view for the faint of heart. This is Vaca Falls. For those with energy remaining after the cave trip, there is a steep path leading to a small pool at the foot of the falls.

After a short briefing by William himself, who was our guide, we were equipped with flashlights and led up a rather steep trail through the jungle, on a 45 minute hike to the mouth of the cave. We're no spring chickens, but even the younger folk in our group got a good workout on this journey. William's knowledge of the flora and fauna, and archaeology make this day unforgettable.

The small, unimpressive opening of this cave, discovered in November of 1989, divulges little of what lies beyond. As you step into the cool darkness, the cave opens up to reveal tall, narrow rooms, littered with pottery, and winding limestone passageways. There are many overhead ledges, which are viewed by climbing handmade ladders and standing at the top, admiring the cluster of pottery displayed there. It is estimated that many of the pots date back as early as 200 BC. It is possible that the cave was used as a grain storage depot, but it may also have been used for ceremonial purposes. While some of the pottery has been moved to the "Vault" at the archaeology department in Belmopan, a special arrangement has been made to allow the majority of it to remain in the cave, exactly as it was found. Photo at left: A handmade ladder provides access to the upper reaches of the cave.

The tour inside the cave lasts over an hour, and involves several ladders and even some modified "rope-climbing" through narrow corridors, as you explore the many levels and channels. At the end of the cave is a large, high-ceilinged room, where it is believed that sacrificial ceremonies were held.

It is best to book your tour by phone the day before: 820-4063. Entrance fee is US$20 per person. Flashlights are available for rent if you don't have your own. We recommend you bring a head lamp, as this leaves your hands free for climbing.

Photo at right: William Moralez. Left: Room after room of the Chechem Hah cave is littered with ancient pottery; much of it still intact.